Saturday, February 24, 2018

analysing and reviewing recent fashion shows.

~ Not sponsored, but if you're interested, hit me up ~

Lately I've been making more of an effort to keep up with high end fashion shows. I've moved the Vogue runway app to the first page on my phone and ever since then I've been checking daily. With the recent NY and London fashion week pouring in the shows I felt that it might be interesting to look at some of my faves and some I don't like.

david koma fall 2018 RTW.
Let's just start with who I think might be my new fave, David Koma. Personally I prefer a strict monochrome and overall-colorless aesthetic, and the first few looks of David Koma's Fall 2018 Ready-To-Wear (From now on abbreviated as "RTW') gave me LIFE.

1: I love the details on the sleeves of this sweater, it's little things like this that give Koma's collection a more fashion-y feel. Also, his garments make the models look amazing and are beautifully shaped (yassss slayyy). 2: This fur coat had me deadddd. Absolutely in love. I love the idea of the fur on the sleeves. 3: This is a more sophisticated, mature look, and while I love the dress and sweater combo, I'm not sure how I feel about this belt. It works for this look, but not so much later on in the show.

But while the first few looks were absolutely STUNNING, the collection later moved into some purple cheap ice-skating looking dresses, which you can tell I'm not a fan of. Koma does redeem himself with some pretty dresses towards the end of the collection but it's definitely not as good as the badass / confident / ass kicking stuff we got in the first few looks. Seriously David, make more like the first few looks and I will stan you 'till the end of time because that fur coat had me SHOOK. (Also if you'd be willing to send me one that would be great okay thanks)

gucci fall 2018 RTW.
Gucci, I love you, but you're weird af.
Staying within it's maximalist lane, but still managing to shock the public with replica's of model heads and life-like dragons and chameleons, Gucci was everything but subtle (but hey, what did we expect, it's Gucci after all).

1: An example of a life-like head on the Gucci runway. Doesn't this look strikingly similar?? 2: I'm kinda feeling this print on print things that I'm seeing. Not sure about the bag or the shoes, but not mad at the jacket/dress situation. 3: This feels very badass to me, and since it's more minimalistic I'm all for it.

I don't really get what Gucci was aiming for, maybe that's just me, but Vogue describes the theme as "full of cross-cultural mediums" which I kinda see, with the Yankee sweater in the beginning and hijab looking covers in the later looks, but overall, the theme was a little unclear for me. It was batshit crazy though, and even though that's not what I'm into, I can definitely appreciate the amount of creativity and fantasy it must take to come up with all of this.

Gucci lately has been undeniably popular, and I think the craziness is part of it's appeal. In a world full of minimalism Gucci is as maximalist and crazy as they come, and I think that's refreshing and new for many. At least you know for sure that the girl next door is probably not wearing the same outfit.
Side note; Vogue did a fun article with behind the scenes pictures of the making of all the fantasy stuff here.

fendi fall 2018 rtw.
It might not be much of a surprise that I liked the majority of this collection, since it's pretty neutral-toned and wearable. The opening Fendi plaid raincoat immediately quenched a thirst for high-fashion raincoats I didn't even know I had, and the rest of the show kept me pretty entertained as well. There were school-girl inspired looks that seemed to breathe fresh air into the kinda old idea of preppy style, there were interesting cape-like dresses and little pops of color like knee-high sky blue boots peeking out from under a dress.

1: The raincoat that cleared my skin, bettered my grades and watered my crops. 2: How stunning is this shoulder-color block dress?? Gigi looks amazing and I'm HERE for it. 3: This preppy dress/cape is also amazing, 10/10 would wear.

Also spotted: pops of mustard, plastic-like material, furs, cute shoulder accents (think: colour blocks or fur shoulder-warmers), tiny embroidered flowers and silk.
Overall the collection was kind of reminiscent of a bunch of preppy Scottish / Parisian detectives, and although that may sound weird, I really really enjoyed it.

marc jacobs fall 2018 rtw.
I know I'm being awfully positive about most of the shows so far, but 1. I just don't really like burning down shows and 2. I chose to pick more shows I was positive about as to send out positive vibes. And boy am I gonna send out some positive vibes rn.

The Marc Jacobs shows was like you walked into some kind of 80's anime villain convention, with cool cowboy like hats, costume like silhouettes, jewel tones and high-waisted pants. In fact I feel like a lot of the looks kinda resemble looks I've seen in Sailor Moon, but that may just be me.

1: I'm OBSESSED with this look, absolutely in love with these leather pants. 2: I noticed with this collection that the more you zoom in, the more interesting each and every garment becomes, not just because of the details, but because of the dreamy fabrics used. This pant fabric looks like something I'd like to drown in, can't imagine how soft these might be. *hearteyes* 3: This look is more toned-down, but I still love the color scheme.

Anyways, I loved the drama of the collection, like each and every look was walking the line between costumery and "normal" clothing. It's definitely not wearable but I just found the broad-shouldered silhouette he created with most of his looks super captivating and mysterious. That said however, the later looks were definitely less amazing (read: there's a literal clown-like outfit, which takes the costume aspect a little bit too far), and although the shoes with the bows were nice as well, they weren't too amazing. The focus was really on the clothes, and I really enjoyed that, and since the clothes were so amazingly well done I don't mind them taking the spotlight one bit.

alexander wang fall 2018 rtw.
This seemed like a collection I'd like on first sight, but when you look closer it becomes less and less monochromatic dream. First up: the sunglasses. I'm just gonna say it right now; I hate these. I feel like this type of sunglasses is cute for taking an IG pic with them half-down your nose, but not as actual sunglasses. They make the model's faces look weird and distorted. Not my thing.

1: The circle pockets were fun and creative, and I liked them.  2: Matrix-vibes. 3: A more preppy look, which was one of my fave ones of this show.

The collection wasn't that bad, but the pieces just kind of felt like they were all the same thing with different variations to fill up space. Also; the theme was supposed to be CEO but then a quarter into the show we get some The Matrix style jackets (Neo is that you? Is Alexander Wang secretly a big Matrix fan?) Then, some ski-jackets with swimmer caps and sheer tops (CEO gone skiing?), booty shorts and athletic wear. Overal, the collection felt kinda uncohesive, which I don't particularly mind if you just hadn't labeled the theme as CEO when half of the pieces are so weird or scandalous that they're def not CEO approved. The pieces were done pretty well and were captivating in their own way, they just didn't really seem to match the theme.

Don't get me wrong, the show had some AMAZING pieces, original ideas and of course an amazing colour scheme, but I just feel the collection could've been bettered if they had digged a little deeper into that CEO theme, which, for the record, is a pretty cool theme and I'm 1000% on board with girl bosses.

Side note: I will give extra props for the circle pockets, I kinda liked those and thought they were creative.

valentino spring 2018 couture.
If the past few shows have been all about refreshing spring and fall trends and what we expect of them then Valentino is about to turn all of that around. A spring show covered in pastels isn't the most innovative. Pair it with tome cloud/feather hat situations and I think it's a bit of a pass for me. There are way better looks in the collection and for those cloud hats to be the thumbnail of the collection just saddens me as there were wayyy better looks that gave a better impression of the overall theme.

1: An example of the weird mushroom / cloud hats. Also not 100% feeling the craft paper look of the jacket or the top or the bottoms... 2: An example of how the show uses a few better looks to save itself. This dress is sooo gorgeously fitted, I love the combination of the blue and the brown and the slightly-puffy sleeves give me life. 3; I didn't want to add in another ugly look, since I'm trying to stay positive, so here's another look that surprisingly enough I was feeling as well.

While definitely not all the looks were as hit or miss (some of them were definitely save-able, bordering on cute), most of them were. It's just kind of sad to see a designer do only pastel, neutral-ish pieces, with no innovative ideas (see: Alexander Wang's circle pockets) or fun stuff. It's literally just plain pastel garments. You're a designer. Come on. Valentino is supposed to be all about sophisticated elegance, and while some looks definitely check this box, feathery bird's nests atop your head don't immediately give me those vibes, but that could just be me.

With all of that said, we should keep in mind that this is the couture collection, and couture is kinda the one place designers can go crazy, so in that aspect, the cloud hats are kinda fun? When you get that they're not meant to be worn they get a whole lot more fun. Maybe I am okay with them, I'm conflicted. As an artistic tool of expression they belong in the collection, and after all couture is mainly about being artistic through the medium of fashion.

Now let's give some shoutouts to pieces or looks that I particularly enjoyed out of collections that I didn't want to spotlight or shoutout.


First up: this print-on-print matching set from Krizia's fall 2018 RTW is soooo stunning. I love the kind of oversized and effortless slouch of the jacket, and the model looks amazing. Yes. Living.

Second: this Céline spring 2018 rtw look did pastels the right way  and I love the little half tuck way of styling the jacket, will definitely be stealing that. Side note: I kinda want a Céline $700 clear plastic bag now oops.

Third: I love that Michael Kors used the Clueless plaid. That's all xd.

Anyways, that was all for this post. I hope you agree with my points or just enjoyed reading this. I will now take the time to link some YT videos with fashion week reviews <3.



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